The Colorist

JUL-AUG 2013

For hair color trends and celebrity hair, colorists turn to The Colorist. Celebrity hair, hair color ideas, hair color products and more.

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step by step ➔ Before let the sunshine in Deb Gavin, International Artistic Director, Keratin Complex Color Therapy, created this gorgeous shade of lemony blonde for our cover girl this month. Layer on the Lemon + Deb Gavin, International Artistic Director, Keratin Complex Color Terapy 22 1 Mix Formula A: 30 ml/1 oz. It's a Blonde Thing Keratin Lightening System and 60 ml/2 f. oz. It's a Blonde Thing 20-volume developer. Using a compact foil technique, apply from scalp to the line of demarcation. Using this technique enables you to create the cleanest light blonde without sacrifcing the integrity of the hair. There is no need to fold the top or sides of each foil, which creates extra weight and may make the sub-sections slide. Simply lay each foil on top of the previous one and paint the formula directly on top. After target level is achieved, cleanse the hair with Keratin Complex Keratin Color Care Shampoo. 2 Mix Formula B (overlay): 30 ml/1 f. oz. 10.28/10VP (Ultra-Light Violet Pearl Blonde) and 60 ml/2 f. oz. KeraHold 20-volume developer. Apply formula to the warmest areas and then to other areas. If the canvas is even after it is cleansed, apply the formula all over. Process for 10 minutes. Cleanse the hair with Keratin Complex Keratin Color Care Shampoo. The Colorist | JULY/AUGUST 2013 | thecoloristmag.com 3 Working on the heavier fall of the natural part line, create a triangle, with the part as the base, by starting at the crown and drawing a line to the outer corner of the eye. Create a smaller triangle on the other side that begins at the same point and ends between the center forehead and mid-brow. Using the point of this asymmetrical triangle as a guide, carve out another, smaller triangle shape behind it, encompassing the crown. 4 Mix Formula C (lemon highlights): 15 ml/.5 f. oz. 10.3/10G (Ultra-Light Golden Blonde), 10 ml/.33 f. oz. 9.43/9CG (Lightest Copper Gold Blonde), 5 ml/.25 f. oz. .03/G (Gold intensifer) and 30 ml/1 f. oz. KeraHold 20-volume developer. Staying within the asymmetrical triangle, apply Formula C in slices from the forehead to the top. Cover the forehead sub-sections with the most amount of color by painting from the scalp to ¼-inch from the ends, fnishing off the ends with an angled brush in varying degrees to softly blend into the beige blonde. 5 Continue working through sub-sections as you move up to the crown, saturating less of the length of the hair as you move upward, and diffusing through the ends. The subsections at the crown should be painted with formula from scalp to mid-shaft, but still blended with the feathering and angling of the brush. Repeat the same technique, using Formula C, on the smaller triangle section at the crown. The sub-sections closest to the crown should be most saturated with color. PHOTOGRAPHY: BABAK Let's start with the haircut, shall we? Love the Sassoon influence and the fact that the undercut is as pale as the flesh of a lemon, while ultra-light golden blonde and copper-blonde highlights break up the heavy fringe, which is a tad darker. "Te frontal slices will have the most lemon influence, with less diffusion of color as you move toward the crown," says Deb Gavin, who also has some good advice when following a lightening with a toning/glazing step: "Be sure to stop the lightening process a bit above the target level. In this case, the target was a level 10, so we lightened a bit beyond a level 10 to ensure proper deposit."

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