The Colorist

NOV-DEC 2014

For hair color trends and celebrity hair, colorists turn to The Colorist. Celebrity hair, hair color ideas, hair color products and more.

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14 The Colorist | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2014 | thecoloristmag.com color mishaps David Stanko and Tracey Cunningham will be hosting a class at Redken Symposium in January called Color Panel (visit redkensalon.com/your-career/ symposium-2015 for more information). We asked them about the coloring mistakes they see most often and how to avoid them. MISREADING A CLIENT'S NATURAL LEVEL This leads to improper shade selection and unexpected results. Stanko's f x: Think in terms of description, say, light brown rather than numbers. Then look at the shade chart and f nd which numeric value is given to light brown. In some cases it's a 4 or 6, which is signif cant. INVISIBLE HIGHLIGHTS "When your highlights come out too dark, you simply have to re-highlight," says Cunningham. Be sure to recommend a good color-extending conditioner to use at home. THE HAIRLINE IS TOO DARK "Formulate one level lighter and apply to a two-inch perimeter around the front hairline," Stanko says. "Then mix your standard base color and apply the rest of the touch-up." NOT TAKING THE CLIENT'S PERSONALITY INTO ACCOUNT Cunningham tries to determine how much time her clients will spend on their hair and what they do for a living. "If the client doesn't have time to maintain her roots, I try to create a color that is low maintenance," she says. NOT RESPECTING THE LIMITS OF HAIR COLOR "Don't use a demi-permanent hair color when a permanent color is required to lift and cover gray," says Stanko, who also suggests being careful with high-lift blonde shades, which are intended to lift about four levels and expose undertones. ti s eet PHOTOGRAPHY: (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT): JENNY HANDS; COURTESY OF REDKEN; STEVEN CHASE GETTY IMAGES/AXELLE/BAUER-GRIFFIN/CONTRIBUTOR. GOLD STANDARD Celebrity colorist Rona O'Connor, who co-owns Lukaro Salon in Beverly Hills with husband Luke, has worked with actress Bella T orne since her Disney show, Shake It Up, and is responsible for the gorgeous shade of golden apricot she was working at the Teen Choice Awards recently. To create a light copper base, O'Connor used Goldwell Topchic in a level 8 copper and Colorance Gloss in a mix of levels 9 copper and level 10 gold. + pink lady On the basis of the work shown here, Helen Afu of Rodney Wayne Salon, Sylvia Park, in Auckland, New Zealand, was named a f nalist for Hairdresser of the Year at the 2014 L'Oréal Colour Trophy Awards. Just goes to prove that we haven't seen the last of the pastel pink trend. true romance For Romantic Grandeur, Aveda's Autumn/ Winter 2014 collection, Ian Michael Black, Aveda Artistic Director, Hair Color, infused warm, rich color with unparalleled dimension to give the eff ect of myriad layers of an aged precious metal chipped back to reveal its original brilliance. "It's very classic, yet modern," he says.

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