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Abraham Sprinkle K E R AT I N C O M P L E X When working with blondes, the biggest mistake I see is a colorist not truly understanding the underlying pigments. Often, a colorist will do a beautiful foil, balayage or ombré and choose the wrong toning product, which can then dull and make the pre-lightened pieces lose the prismatic effect one looks for in blondes. Blondes, being so delicate and pale, need as much dimension as they can get to not look f at; it's key that the stylist understands that toning is about neutralizing, not pigmenting. When you're at a level 9 to 10 and unaderpigment and a strict blue base is used, the result can be muddy and lifeless. One solution is using Keratin Complex Kerabrilliance 10v, which is a staple for getting a correct neutralization without loosing the sparkle. Teri Dougherty A L O X X I A common problem colorists face when working with blondes is a dark blonde client who wants the sun-kissed look but can't commit to a two-step process every salon visit. To combat it, I do highlights every three months, and in-between visits I do a quick base adjust. For example, if the client is a level 7, I do highlights with Aloxxi Blue Lightener and 20-volume developer. Then at the basin, I apply Boost with 10-volume developer between the foils for a quick base adjust. Develop for three minutes. Frances London Dubose A L L - N U T R I E N T The client who goes blonde all the way with lightener is very particular about her roots. For a fast and easy f x, I recommend using a Super LightNatural formula. When the re-growth is just a ½ inch, heat from the scalp speeds processing—1½ inches, however, is too much re-growth to rely on body heat. {4 } { 5} { 6 } thecoloristmag.com | JULY/AUGUST 2015 | The Colorist 29 PHOTOGRAPHY: ANDREW O'TOOLE; HAIR: KARINE JACKSON FOR ORGANIC COLOUR SYSTEMS; CAROL PLYMILL; CREATIVE DIRECTOR: IVIE RICHMAN Don't forget that blonde hair is delicate. Even more than with most other clients, I make sure my blonde clients get my best recommendations for at-home care. I love Matrix Biolage ColorLast Shampoo and Conditioner because it moisturizes and protects, even when busy clients don't always get to the rest of their haircare regime. —NICK STENSON, MATRIX ARTISTIC DIRECTOR Ash blonde highlights by Karine Jackson using Organic Colour Systems F R O M B A N I S H I N G B R A S S I N E S S T O K E E P I N G C O L O R V I B R A N T. Bombshell blonde from Keratin Complex