The Colorist

MAR-APR 2017

The Colorist is the hair color authority! How-to’s for stunning hair styles, hair color formulas, products for color-treated hair, celebrity colorist profiles, education tips and salon industry news are included in each issue.

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22 The Colorist | MARCH/APRIL 2017 | thecoloristmag.com curves ahead Lisa McAuliffe shares her Incandescent Set technique for curly and wavy hair, as featured in Product Club's Blueprint Highlighting DVD series. McAuliffe recommends using Product Club 12-inch Thermal Color Wraps for this technique. "When you fi rst remove the Thermal Color Wraps they are fairly compressed," she says. "By manipulating them with your hands and loosening them up, they will naturally separate and become easier to use." BEFORE ➜ AFTER PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF PRODUCT CLUB 1 Begin your fi rst section by creating a triangular pie-shape from the apex to each recession point. These should be approximately 3 inches wide to correspond with the width of the Product Club Thermal Color Wraps. Take another pie-shaped section adjacent to the fi rst, from apex to behind the ear, approximately 3 inches wide, to accommodate the width of a thermal wrap. Repeat on the other side of the head. Divide the back of the head in two. 2 Begin by taking a ¼-inch slice along the front FORMULAS A | Level 9 ash blonde with 20-volume developer B | Level 4 natural demi- permanent with 9-volume developer C | Lightener with 20-volume developer D | (optional) If undesired yellow tones persist, use a demi-permanent glaze, level 9 ash blonde mixed with clear and 9-volume developer at the end to neutralize and add shine. hairline. Using the 12-inch Thermal Color Wraps, apply formula A to the bottom half of the hair, feathering the line of demarcation. Apply formula B starting at the root and blending into the previous formula. 3 Working sheet-on- sheet, take a second slice. Apply formula A to the bottom two-thirds of the hair. Now, using lightener, apply three accent brush strokes to the lower tips of the hair. Follow through by applying formula B to the roots, blending into formula A. 4 Continuing to work sheet-on-sheet, take another slice of hair. Apply formula A to the majority of the section, leaving 1 to 2 inches of root. For this section, the lightener is applied in much longer brushstrokes, creating stronger accents. Apply formula B from the root blending downward. 5 Repeat this pattern in reverse. Apply formula A to the bottom two-thirds of the hair. Using lightener, apply three accent brush strokes to the lower tips of the hair. Follow through by applying formula B to the roots, blending into formula A. 6 For the fi nal slice of the set, apply formula A to the bottom half of the hair, feathering the line of demarcation. Apply formula B starting at the root and blending into the previous formula. 7 This set can be repeated back-to-back, using the fi fth and fi nal slice as the fi rst slice of the next set. The fi ve-slice set can also be used as an individual accent if an entire head is not desired. 8 Allow the color to process, shampoo, towel- dry and glaze with formula D if necessary. get the look ➜ | assroom p roduct Club artist Lisa McAuliff e, a master colorist at Brennen Demelo Studio in Toronto, created the Incandescent Set technique for Product Club's Blueprint Highlighting educational DVD series. "I wanted to teach an effi cient approach to create a strong yet sophisticated placement for hair with wavy or curly texture, since it's typically diffi cult to see the highlights on curly hair," McAuliff e says. " e application for the Incandescent Set can be easily adapted to be customized for diverse lengths and textures of hair. e fi ve back-to-back layers of color allow for naturally placed accents that ebb and fl ow throughout the lengths of hair." Here, McAuliff e shares her technique, which can be used with any hair color line. EXPERT TIP The sequence for the application of each sliced section in the fi ve-slice set Suggested sectioning for the application

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