The Colorist

SEP-OCT 2017

The Colorist is the hair color authority! How-to’s for stunning hair styles, hair color formulas, products for color-treated hair, celebrity colorist profiles, education tips and salon industry news are included in each issue.

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thecoloristmag.com | SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2017 | The Colorist 45 Subtle Smokey PRE-LIGHTEN FORMULA 1 scoop Flash Lift Maximum Power Lightening Powder + 1 oz. 30-volume Pro- oxide Cream Developer + 4 ml pH-Bonder #1 Bond Protecting Additive FORMULA A: ZONE 1 1 oz. Color Fusion 5Va + 1 oz. Color Fusion 4Bv + 2 oz. 10-volume Pro-oxide Cream Developer + 4 ml (when using) pH-Bonder #1 Bond Protecting Additive FORMULA B: ZONES 2–3 1 oz. Color Fusion 5Va + 1 oz. Color Fusion 4Bv + 2 oz. 20-volume Pro-oxide Cream Developer + 4 ml pH-Bonder #1 Bond Protecting Additive FORMULA C 1 oz. Mother of Pearl Shades EQ Gloss 07P + 1 oz. Shades EQ Processing Solution + 2 ml pH-Bonder #1 Bond Protecting Additive 1 Section the hair before pre-lightening. Start near the temple, about 1 inch back from the hairline, creating a crescent- shaped section. Next, over-direct hair to the front of the section and secure with an elastic. Repeat on the opposite side of the head. 2 Begin the pre-lightening application. Take 1 / 8 –¼ -inch subsections and place onto a foil. Apply the Pre-Lighten formula through zones 2 to 3. Use the Blur Brush to create a soft transition approximately 1 inch below the elastic. Make sure to fully saturate each section. Cover with a foil to secure. Complete the ponytail and repeat on the opposite side. Process at room temperature for 50 minutes (or until Pre-Lighten formula reaches pale yellow). Shampoo with Extreme. Apply Chemistry Extreme. Dry hair. 3 Before beginning color application, isolate the pre-lightened ponytails. 4 Begin the hair color application. Apply formula A to zone 1 and extend into zone 2, making sure to avoid the pre- lightened areas. 5 Release the ponytail sections created in step three. Apply formula A to zone 1 and extend into zone 2, making sure to avoid the pre-lightened areas. 6 To avoid overlapping into zone 1, apply formula C to zones 2 to 3 using the vertical edge of the Edging Brush. Saturate through to the ends using the horizontal edge of the Edging Brush. Complete the ponytail and repeat on the opposite side. 7 Process at room temperature for 20 minutes and then rinse. Do not shampoo. Apply pH-Bonder #2 Fiber Restorative Pre-Wash Concentrate for 10 minutes. Rinse and follow with Color Extend Magnetics. FOR CLIENTS WHO WANT a soft and natural look Full Drama PRE-LIGHTEN FORMULA 1 scoop Flash Lift Maximum Power Lightening Powder + 1 oz. 30-volume Pro-oxide Cream Developer + 4 ml pH-Bonder #1 Bond Protecting Additive FORMULA A 2 oz. Chicory Color Gels 4NA + 2 oz. 10-volume Color Gels Developer + 4 ml pH- Bonder #1 Bond Protecting Additive FORMULA B ¼ oz. 05RV Sangria Shades EQ Gloss + 1¾ oz. 09RB Blush Shades EQ Gloss + 2 oz. Shades EQ Processing Solution + 4 ml pH-Bonder #1 Bond Protecting Additive FORMULA C City Beats Midtown Magenta FORMULA D City Beats East Village Violet 1 Section the hair before pre-lightening. Create a deep side part on the left. Divide the head into four sections. 2 Begin the pre-lightening application. In the right back quadrant, take a ¼-inch section and place onto a foil. Apply Pre- Lighten formula to zones 2 and 3. Use the Blur Brush to soften the transition between zones 1 and 2. Cover with a foil. Continue working up and around each quadrant, using the same method until all quadrants are complete. Process at room temperature for 50 minutes (or until Pre-Lighten formula reaches pale yellow). Shampoo with Extreme. Apply Redken Chemistry Extreme. Dry hair. 3 Section the hair before beginning color application. Starting at the back of the original deep side part, create a vertical part that extends down to the ear on the right side of the head. 4 Divide the front from the back on the right side. 5 Create a curved parting on the left side part, starting 2 inches back from the hairline. Extend the curved parting to 2 inches above the right ear and isolate this section. 6 Create a second curved parting 2 inches behind the previous section. Extend this parting to where the parietal ridge and the vertical parting intersect. 7 Begin the color application. Starting at the temple in the right front section, take a ¼-inch subsection and place onto a foil. Apply formula B to zone 1 and soften into zone 2 using the Blur Brush. 8 Using the vertical edge of the Edging Brush, apply formula B to zone 2. Make sure not to blend the formulas together. Saturate through to the ends using the horizontal edge of the brush. Cover with a foil. Complete the entire section using the same method. 9 Move into the next section. Apply formula A the same way, but now introduce formula C for zones 2 and 3. Complete the entire section. 0 Move into the last section. Apply formula A as before, however formula D will now be applied to zones 2 and 3. Complete the entire section. q Once the right front side of the head is completed, continue through the remaining three quadrants using the same method. Apply formula A to zone 1 (softening into zone 2) and use formula D on zones 2 and 3 of all hair not yet colored. w Process at room temperature for 20 minutes. Rinse. Do not shampoo. Apply pH-Bonder #2 Fiber Restorative Pre-Wash Concentrate for 10 minutes. Rinse and follow with Color Extend Magnetics. FOR CLIENTS WHO WANT a dramatic pop of color

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