The Colorist

SEP-OCT 2013

For hair color trends and celebrity hair, colorists turn to The Colorist. Celebrity hair, hair color ideas, hair color products and more.

Issue link: https://thecoloristmag.epubxp.com/i/158835

Contents of this Issue

Navigation

Page 38 of 52

COLORING HAIR EXTENSIONS REQUIRES A LITTLE KNOW-HOW IF YOU WANT TO ACHIEVE OPTIMUM RESULTS. WE ASKED CELEBRITY STYLIST AND HAIR EXTENSION EXPERT JOEY CARRERA OF WARREN-TRICOMI SALON IN LOS ANGELES TO SHARE HIS SECRETS. color Coloring hair extensions is completely different than coloring a client's actual hair. You have to know where your hair came from and the process they I usually use Great Lengths extensions, but if you're using a big company like Great Lengths, which is the Mercedes-Benz of extensions, you might have to order in advance as the most popular colors aren't always in stock. My advice is to order hair in a color as close to your client's as you can and then tweak the shade. You could get hair that's slightly lighter and then tone it down a little. When you're coloring extensions, nine times out of 10 you'll be using a color gloss versus actual color with peroxide. The idea is to just stain the hair, so demi-permanent color is best. I use Redken Shades EQ because it's a little more translucent and predictable. used to color or stain the hair. This will help you with lightening the hair and toning. When making extensions darker, always use heat to help the color grab and not wash out so quickly. If you are creating a specifc shade, color a few strands of hair and experiment until you fgure the color out perfectly. Always use two to three shades to make the hair look as natural as possible. When choosing a toner to color the hair, use a shade lighter then the desired target as hair may pull darker when put under heat. When taking hair darker, use golden colors versus natural as the natural sometimes has gray or green undertones and will alter the color of the extension hair. If you take the extension hair too dark, simply use a bleach cap on the ends for no more than fve minutes to pull out the tone you do not want. If you can't get the exact shade you need from an extension company to match your client's color, you will have to create a color that matches the client's hair. Most extension companies have basic colors, but not the more creative colors. For one thing, there are not a lot of red shades and not many specifc shades of blonde. If you want ombré hair, you'll probably have to create it yourself. It's really important to do a test, especially if you're trying to darken extensions because the extensions can turn a green or grayish shade. Because of the underlying pigment or toner, they can also get too dark. 36 The Colorist | SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2013 | thecoloristmag.com Even if you're buying human hair extensions, you have to remember that they go through a process before you get them. The natural color is often stripped out, and the chemical processes can alter the nature of the extensions. That's why it's imperative that you test on pieces before you do all of the hair. When you're lightening extensions, it's easy to over-process them and compromise the quality of the extension. Always color the extensions before application. You also want to make sure that you have the client's color perfect before you color the extensions. You have to know what you're working with. I literally lay down some foil on a tray, place the extensions on the foil and paint the color on. Finally, make sure you evenly saturate the hair. Use a comb to work the color through so you don't have a spot of hair that is uncolored.

Articles in this issue

Links on this page

Archives of this issue

view archives of The Colorist - SEP-OCT 2013