The Colorist

SEP-OCT 2014

The Colorist is the hair color authority! How-to’s for stunning hair styles, hair color formulas, products for color-treated hair, celebrity colorist profiles, education tips and salon industry news are included in each issue.

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20 The Colorist | SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2014 | Deb Gavin solar fl air Deb Gavin of Keratin Complex looks through a prism and sees hair color. H air artists can fi nd inspiration in the simplest things, like watching how light bursts into a rainbow of colors when refracted through a piece of glass. T ese colors can be seen throughout nature as well and in combinations that both surprise and delight. "Warm sits next to cool, vibrant sits next to muted, and it all works harmoniously," says Keratin Complex's International Artistic Director for Color T erapy Deb Gavin, who created the 2014 Prismatic Collection from this maxim. "We wanted to bring out the brilliant color in the hair through light and movement," Gavin says. T ese looks incorporate vivid, prismatic hues—red, orange and yellow in the Solar technique—by placing the colors in such a way that the viewer's eye acts as the prism, splitting the light and picking out the myriad hues within the hair. PRISMATIC COLOR PHOTOGRAPHY (TOP): BABAK. (BOTTOM): COURTESY OF KERATIN COMPLEX. CREATIVE DIRECTORS: IVIE RICHMAN AND KIRSTIN GUNDERSEN; CUT AND STYLING: DAVID BARRON; MAKEUP: SHERILYN SEGAL; FASHION STYLING: GOLNAZ DAVOUDI. s ep by s ep STEP BY STEP 1 To cleanse the canvas and ensure target color, especially with multiple shades of existing deposit, mix Formula A (1 oz. It's a Blonde Thing Keratin Lightening System and 2 f . oz. 20-volume It's a Blonde Thing Developer) and apply to deepest areas f rst, using a color board and working quickly. Process for 15 minutes. 2 Shampoo with Keratin Complex Timeless Color Fade-Defy Shampoo. Then, create three rounded triangle sections with the points starting at the crown. 3 Mix Formula B (25mL KeraHold 10.0/10N, 10mL Metamorf x .33/ GG, 5mL KeraHold 8.3/8G, 40mL oz. 20-volume KeraHold Developer), Formula C (15mL KeraHold .48/ CP, 12mL KeraHold 8.23/8VG, 3mL KeraHold 4.20/4VN and 30mL 20-volume KeraHold Developer) and Formula D (20mL KeraHold 9.43/9CG, 5mL KeraHold .48/CP, 3mL Metamorf x .33/GG and 30mL 20-volume KeraHold Developer). In the triangular sections, alternate these formulas on ¼-inch subsections, using back-to-back slices. Do not fold the foils. After the application is complete, roll the foils as one unit to ensure even uptake. 4 Mix Formula E (60mL KeraHold 8.4/8C, 20mL Metamorf x .44/ CC 80mL 20-volume KeraHold Developer) and Formula F (60mL KeraHold 7.4/7C, 10mL KeraHold 8.3/8G, 10mL Metamorf x .44/CC and 80mL 20-volume KeraHold Developer). Around the foiled sections, apply Formula E from scalp to mid-length, angling the tint brush in a varying ways for a feathering effect. Then, marry Formula F from mid-length to end. Process for 35 minutes. 5 Shampoo the hair with Timeless Color Shampoo, then towel-dry. Mix Formula G (20mL KeraBrilliance 9.2/9V, 20mL KeraBrilliance 0.0/ Clear, 10mL KeraBrilliance 9.33/9GG, and 50mL Demi-Glaze Activator). Apply to entire head and process for 20 minutes. +

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