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22 The Colorist | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016 | thecoloristmag.com soap dish Malibu Wellness Labs chemist Henry Owegi demystif es sulfates, and explains their effect on hair color. c assroom A n increasing number of salon professional shampoos labeled as "sulfate-free" are hitting the market, especially those targeting color-treated hair. So what exactly are sulfates, and how do they aff ect hair color? We got the scoop from Henry Owegi, who serves as Malibu Wellness Laboratories' cosmetic chemist and manager of regulatory and compliance for the Malibu C brand as well as private label brands. TC | What are sulfates and what do they do? HO | In the salon and spa Industry, the term "sulfate" usually refers to a sulfate cleanser (surfactant). Sodium lauryl sulfate is an example of a sulfate-based cleanser commonly used in shampoo formulations. TC | What effect do sulfates have on color-treated hair? HO | Sodium lauryl sulfate is a very strong and powerful cleansing agent that has the ability to cause the highest degree of color fading compared to other surfactants. While sodium lauryl sulfate is highly effective in cleansing, it can also remove oils and solubilize proteins, which further weakens the hair. Hair with reduced natural oils and proteins looks and feels dull, dry and damaged. TC | What is sodium laureth sulfate, and is it less damaging to hair color? HO | Sodium laureth sulfate is the ethoxylated form of sodium lauryl sulfate. Sodium lauryl sulfate is a very harsh cleansing agent that has been shown to be an irritant for certain individuals on both the skin and scalp. To reduce the irritation potential, an ether group is added through a process known as ethoxylation. The new ethoxylated sodium lauryl sulfate is commonly referred to as sodium laureth sulfate. Sodium laureth sulfate still maintains the strength and cleansing properties similar to sodium lauryl sulfate, so it will still cause color fading. TC | Why is sodium lauryl sulfate used in shampoos instead of other surfactant alternatives? HO | There are a handful of reasons, such as: A. Effectiveness—it is a highly effective cleanser. B. Lather—it has a higher foaming power compared to other surfactants. C. Cost—it's very cost effective/cheap compared to other mild surfactants. TC | Is there any circumstance where it would be benef cial to use sulfates in a shampoo? HO | Yes, sulfate shampoos are highly effective in terms of removing and reducing the oil content on hair; therefore it is my assumption that individuals with greasy/ oily hair could potentially benef t from using such shampoos. FYI PHOTOGRAPHY: JOHANNA PARKIN COLONIAL TRADERS IN INDIA introduced newly experienced bathing rituals to Europe in the late 18 th century, including a hair treatment they dubbed "shampoo," derived from the Hindi word cha - mpo. Herbs have been used to cleanse the hair in India for centuries.