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30 The Colorist | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016 | thecoloristmag.com Apply formula A to mid-lengths, ends and scalp area. Process up to 15 minutes at room temperature. Cleanse and dry. Take a curved parting in the fringe region that extends from the corner of the eye on one side to the other; create a curved parting that begins at the hairline from previous to behind the ear and repeat on the opposite side; and take a radial parting from ear to ear and secure the front and back sections separately. Beginning on the right side, take a ¼-inch slice, place on foil and apply formula B. Leave a small slice between foils and repeat until the section is complete. Repeat on the other side and fringe sections. Process to pale yellow or up to 50 minutes at room temperature. Cleanse and dry. On the pre-lightened hair in the side section take a diagonal slice. Visually divide the foil into thirds. Apply formula C to the scalp area 2 to 4 inches out. Apply formula D to the middle section and formula E to the ends. Cover each slice with foil; do not fold. Meld each formula with the next by using a side brushing technique. Continue to apply color in the same manner to previously lightened sections. Auburn Blaze Jennifer Andrews and Rebecca Gregory Organic Way (Oway) Aurora Borealis Sonya Dove Wella, Sebastian Majestic Lace Jo Jordan and Conor Caf so Matrix FORMULAS A | Matrix Soblur Clear + 10-volume Cream Developer B | LightInsider + ColorInsider 20-volume Oil Cream Developer C | ColorInsider 10V + ColorInsider 6R + ColorInsider Red Concentrate + C ColorInsider 10-volume Oil Cream Developer D | ColorInsider 10A + ColorInsider 1N + ColorInsider Blue Concentrate + ColorInsider 10-volume Oil Cream Developer E | Color Sync SPV + 10-volume Cream Developer Using slices pivoting off of the center part toward the ear on both sides of the head, alternate formulas A, B and C. Apply formula B to the new growth and feather out to the ends around the foiled slices. FORMULAS A | Green: equal parts Wella Koleston Perfect 0/33 + 0/28 + 10 volume B | Blue: equal parts Koleston Perfect 0/33 + 0/28 + 0/88 + 10 volume C | Purple: equal parts Color Touch 0/68 + 10/6 + 6 volume Start with a 2-inch section around the parting in a horseshoe shape. Pre-lighten ¼ inch off the scalp with Wella Blondor powder plus 40-volume developer, lifting to a pale yellow. Shampoo and condition. Take ¼-inch slices and put them into long foils using the green, blue and purple formulas. Develop for 20 minutes, then shampoo and condition. Apply Sebastian Blue Sapphire Cellophanes over the entire head, keeping off the scalp, and process under heat for 15 minutes. FORMULAS A | (copper): Oway HColor 8.43 + double 40-volume HCatalyst developer B | (red base): HColor 5.6 + 30-volume HCatalyst C | (bright red): HColor 7.66 + 30-volume HCatlyst inspiration station