The Colorist

MAR-APR 2016

The Colorist is the hair color authority! How-to’s for stunning hair styles, hair color formulas, products for color-treated hair, celebrity colorist profiles, education tips and salon industry news are included in each issue.

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14 The Colorist | MARCH/APRIL 2016 | ➜ MOULTRIE, GA Balayaged ombré looks have been a popular request with clients nationwide, but at Envy Salon Studio, owner and colorist Gray (DJ) Armstrong always tries to put his own spin on trends using Tressa color. Here is his tip for creating stand-out balayage eff ects: "Instead of creating the 'V' on each section, try lightly feathering just above the mid-shaft toward the ends in a 45 degree angle along each section, swapping sides as you advance to the next," Armstrong says. "Small sectioning will create a darker base with lighter ends. Larger sections will create a more natural eff ect, extending distance between the lightened sections." ➜ STUDIO CITY, CA Claudio Lazo and Jaclyn Wosk of The C Salon by Claudio Lazo created this edgy "Rock & Yellow" look specif cally for The Colorist, inspired by the current Underground Downtown Movement of the Los Angeles street scene music culture. "It's today's twist (think somewhat steampunk) on iconic feminist rock stars like Chrissie Hynde, Joan Jett and Pat Benatar," Lazo says. Lazo and Wosk utilized Wella hair color and a freehand hair-painting technique on a graphic, textured cut to achieve their creative vision. "It's not about highlight or generic color; it's a personal, wearable tattoo," Lazo says. "Just as people are individual and distinctive in the expression of their tattoos, the same is true for this color technique." WHAT'S ON TREND. WHAT'S OF INTEREST. WHAT'S GOING ON IN SALONS AROUND THE COUNTRY. local color ➜ DELRAY BEACH, FL Eric Charles Mokotoff, who owns the salon Hair Studio Artists, is a sought-after educator and author who is passionate about hair color. Here, he shares his Architecture of a Highlight approach to taking highlighting beyond "racking and stacking" foils. 1 | Establish what zones of the head you will add highlights to and choose your geometric shape. 2 | Decide how the light will fall within your chosen zone: horizontal, a waterfall of color and light going across; vertical, ribbons of color and light that etch into the depth of the hair; diagonal toward, angles of color and light moving toward or forward; or diagonal away, angles of color and light moving away or back from. 3 | What goes into the foil will determine the effect of the direction. You can slice, weave, slice-jump-slice, micro- weave, and so on. Mixing up the texture of what is in your foil will help create a more organic, seamless feel. 4 | How thick or thin your texture is will also determine how closely set and compacted the slices, weaves or other textures are. 5 | Make sure to leave some emptiness—background— to give more oomph to your dimension. 6 | The last thing to consider is your formulas—what colors, levels and tones you will use to complete your desired creation. T e color palette was inspired by street graffi ti using tones of limoncello, magenta, teal and moss on a brown suede base. PHOTOGRAPHY (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT): NICK BERARDI; COURTESY OF ERIC CHARLES MOKOTOFF; COURTESY OF GRAY ARMSTRONG

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