The Colorist

SEP-OCT 2016

The Colorist is the hair color authority! How-to’s for stunning hair styles, hair color formulas, products for color-treated hair, celebrity colorist profiles, education tips and salon industry news are included in each issue.

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TRACEY RICHY & RENÉE RAMI ➽ Longtime COSMETOLOGISTS CHICAGO member Margaret Vinci Heldt, credited for creating the beehive hairstyle in the 1960s, recently passed away at age 98. ➽ Celebrity hairdressers and co-owners of RAMIREZ TRAN SALON in Beverly Hills, CA, Johnny Ramirez and Anh Co Tran have launched A.R.T, ACADEMY RAMIREZ TRAN, to teach their Lived in Color and Lived in Hair techniques in classes around the country. ➽ SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL'S Tracey Nuhn has been promoted from Regional Education Manager to National Education Manager/PPS. ➽ TIGI U.S. Technical Director Richy Kandasamy and his wife and partner Renée Cascarina have launched RIKOKO, a coconut oil-infused professional hair care and treatment line inspired by Kandasamy's native island country of Seychelles. ➽ FAROUK SYSTEMS founder Farouk Shami has reappointed his eldest son, Rami Shami, as the CEO of FAROUK SYSTEMS; Rami will continue to oversee the operations and production processes in his new role while seeking to improve all aspects of the company and its departments with his executive team. ➽ AFFINAGE recently celebrated its 20 th anniversary with a weekend event of hair shows, master class seminars and entertainment held at the Grange Tower Bridge hotel in London. MARGARET JOHNNY & AHN Affi nage celebrated its 20 th anniversary in London. newsfeed Recently I've received many questions for my weekly "Fast Tip Friday" broadcast on how to transition blonde clients from summer into fall. Blonde hair often becomes one dimensional and overly light by the end of summer, so low-lights are my go-to option. COLOR CHOICES When it comes to low- lighting blondes, I like to add warmer tones, but it's important to select those tones carefully. Red is too warm for a blonde low- light—instead, opt for modern shades like mocha, rose-violet or gold-violet. APPLICATION My number-one piece of advice when low-lighting is to keep the low-lights away from the face. Blondes tend to freak out if the hair around their face becomes dark, so keep your placement at least 2 inches away from the hairline, and allow the light color to remain around the face. Place low-lights vertically so no matter how she parts her hair, you'll see balanced tone throughout the head. Place darker color minimally—partial or accent low-lights are generally suffi cient to achieve the desired results. BASE-SHADING Base-shading creates depth around the hairline and it's another way to change the focal point on a too-light blonde. Remember, the rules of color still apply. If you're starting with a level 10, you'll have to fi ll the hair fi rst with a warm, underlying pigment. Then, because the color will be applied on the heat zone, you'll need a cool toner to counteract the warmth. Apply the color with a side brush technique at the new growth, and then apply a clear formula to blur the line between the application and the existing color for a seamless transition. Always perform base- shading with a demi- permanent formula like Matrix Color Sync since you're depositing, not lifting. The ceramide technology in Color Sync provides color longevity and helps close the cuticle, which is a plus for porous hair. IN THE NICK OF TIME Matrix Artistic Director Nick Stenson shares tips, techniques and celebrity trends. PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF COSMETOLOGISTS CHICAGO; COURTESY OF ACADEMY RAMIREZ TRAN; COURTESY OF SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL; COURTESY OF RIKOKO; COURTESY OF FAROUK SYSTEMS; COURTESY OF MATRIX 42 The Colorist | SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2016 | thecoloristmag.com

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