The Colorist

JAN-FEB 2017

The Colorist is the hair color authority! How-to’s for stunning hair styles, hair color formulas, products for color-treated hair, celebrity colorist profiles, education tips and salon industry news are included in each issue.

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12 The Colorist | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2017 | rays at sunset Matrix Artistic Director Chrystofer Benson and his team shot The Colorist's show-stopping January/February cover in New York City, a fi ery look combining cutting- edge color with classically elegant styling. "The inspiration for this look was a beautiful sunset with rays of color still shining through," Benson says. FORMULAS A | LIGHTENER Matrix Light Master + 20-volume developer B | BASE 3 oz. Socolor 5VR + 1½ oz. 3VR + 4½ oz. 10-volume Cream Developer C | BLUE ½ oz. Socolor Clear + 2 oz. SoBoost Blue + 2½ oz. 10-volume Cream Developer D | RED 1½ oz. Socolor 6RR+ + 2 oz. SoBoost Red + 3½ oz. 10-volume Cream Developer E | COPPER 1 oz. Socolor 8CC + 2 oz. SoBoost Copper + 3 oz. 10-volume Cream Developer F | YELLOW 1 oz. Socolor 9CG + 2 oz. SoBoost Yellow + 3 oz. 10-volume Cream Developer 1 Secure a diamond-shaped section in the top crown area. Next, take a parting approximately 2 inches off each of the points and connect creating four oblong square sections; secure. 2 Working in the back left oblong square section, lay a ¼-inch slice on foil and, staying approximately 1 to 1½ inches diffused away from the scalp, apply formula A through to the ends. Continue this application method taking back-to-back slices until the section is complete. Repeat in the other three sections and process until level 8 gold is achieved. Rinse, cleanse, condition and dry hair. 3 Re-create original sectioning. Starting in the nape area working up toward the oblong square sections, apply formula B from the scalp to the ends. 4 Divide the oblong square into three sections. In the bottom section, lay a ¼-inch slice on foil and apply formulas B through F from the scalp to the mid-lengths using a feathering technique for diffusion of color melting. Reverse the order, starting with formula E, when applying color from the mid-lengths to the ends. In the middle section, the formula order from the scalp to mid-lengths is B, D, E, F, E, and from the mid-lengths to ends it is D, E, F, E, D. In the top sub-section, the formula application is the same as the bottom. 5 Repeat the application method in the second step in all of the other oblong square sections and apply formula B to all hair left out of the foils. Process for 45 minutes, rinse, cleanse and condition. To make this technique more commercial, leave your levels and tones close together. To create a more progressive look, separate your tones and levels. —CHRYSTOFER BENSON, MATRIX ARTISTIC DIRECTOR KEY PRODUCTS | MATRIX 3 Style Link Style Fixer Finishing Spray 1 Socolor Blended Collection 2 Socolor Refl ective Collection PHOTOGRAPHY Joseph Cartright HAIR Chrystofer Benson Jen Miaczynski Amanda Epstein MAKEUP Seevon Chau FASHION STYLING Andre Austin COLOR LINE Matrix Socolor Use a round brush to create body and volume. CHRYSTOFER BENSON is a four-time North American Hairdressing Award (NAHA) winner. The Matrix team styled the cover model's hair (from left) in a classic Marcel wave brushed out and blown open, piled on top of the head in a loose bun for a vintage look and knotted at the crown. HOURS TO FINISHED LOOK 3 Six new Socolor mocha shades will be available in February. | cover look

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