The Colorist

JAN-FEB 2017

The Colorist is the hair color authority! How-to’s for stunning hair styles, hair color formulas, products for color-treated hair, celebrity colorist profiles, education tips and salon industry news are included in each issue.

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Page 17 of 52 | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2017 | The Colorist 15 PHOTOGRAPHY (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP): OLIGO PROFESSIONNEL; KHALUS; COURTESY OF FAROUK; JENNY ANDERSON THE LOOK Online education provider has released Collection 4, showcasing the haircutting and color work of founder and Lead Creative Don Haidl and Color Director Clancey Gurn-Callaway. The body of work draws inspiration from the John Keats poem "La Belle Dame sans Merci" and pays homage to today's Circe (a powerful sorceress in Greek mythology) characters—women who exude an air of confi dence that can be intoxicating, but oftentimes ruinous. The duo relied on scissor-over- comb and contrasting bi- level techniques to produce the angular cuts, while color techniques focus on saturated applications that produce intense light-to- dark gradients intended to mirror the natural properties of gemstones. "Collection 4 taps into our love for dark and seductive looks that radiate boldness and power," Haidl says. "We translated this intensity into usable, avant-garde techniques that are meant to inspire hairdressers while still being suitable for a varied clientele." "I promise you ombré is all but fi nished. The new look in color is evolving as I type." —LOUIS LICARI, CO-OWNER, LICARI CUTLER SALON, NEW YORK CITY you heard it here: Commonly used in skincare products, rosehip oil—rich in antioxidants and essential fatty acids— is a key ingredient in Farouk's new CHI Rose Hip Oil Color Nurture line, comprising Protecting Shampoo, Protecting Conditioner, Repair & Shine Leave-In Tonic, Dry UV Protecting Oil, Dry Shampoo and Recovery Treatment. Naturally low in pH, rose hip oil delivers moisture and shine to hair while keeping the cuticle closed to lock in hair color. ➳ rose h s HOT INGREDIENT: Oligo Professionnel International Colour Director Misael Aponte has found an ideal method for achieving "lived-in," low-maintenance highlights. "I use shallow vertical partings in a bricklayer stagger delivered with varying distances away from the scalp," he says. "By keeping the slices shallow, you avoid creating linear stripes from top to bottom, thus achieving a look that is dramatic, yet subtle. Staggering in a bricklayer pattern also increases diffusing, but my best tip is to angle your color brush higher toward the interior of the vertical panel and lower in the exterior to create blonde hair color that moves up as you move in toward the interior. This creates the illusion of light pushing through from the interior hair before seeing the actual demarcation line at the exterior surface." Aponte's fi nal advice? "Enhance the transition by toning at the exterior demarcation line and slightly feathering past it, stopping at the mid-lengths, using Oligo Professionnel's Calura Pastel series toners," he says. TIP OF THE MONTH THE AVERAGE AMOUNT HAIR GROWS PER MONTH 1⁄2

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