The Colorist

MAY-JUN 2017

The Colorist is the hair color authority! How-to’s for stunning hair styles, hair color formulas, products for color-treated hair, celebrity colorist profiles, education tips and salon industry news are included in each issue.

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42 The Colorist | MAY/JUNE 2017 | PHOTOGRAPHY (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP): HERO IMAGES; COURTESY OF LAKMÉ USA; COURTESY OF OLIGO PROFESSIONNEL; COURTESY OF ALOXXI; COURTESY OF MATRIX fa fi x Expert colorists share their best solutions to four common coloring mishaps. t he moment most colorists dread is the one where they realize they've made a mistake, and the client sitting in their chair may leave angry, disappointed or worse—decide not to come back. So what do you do if you make a mistake? Before you throw in the towel, consider that many coloring mistakes can be fi xed in a matter of minutes. Here, four expert colorists share their most eff ective solutions for common mishaps. | assroom Er Nelson ALOXXI ARTISTIC ADVISOR THE MISTAKE The toner grabs differently than expected. THE FIX "Sometimes we run into issues when toning," Nelson says. "When this happens, I like to mix Aloxxi Lightener with water and 10-volume developer—plus RRx Repair Serum for an added bonus—and run it through the hair for only a minute or so at the shampoo bowl. This will take some of the unwanted tone off the hair and allow me to re-tone for my desired result. Make sure you don't leave it on too long. It is lightener and you don't want it to mess with any low-lights or natural tone left in the hair." Danielle Kea g MATRIX ARTISTIC DIRECTOR THE MISTAKE You forgot to pre-tone pre- lightened hair before applying a cooler fashion shade. THE FIX "When applying a cooler fashion shade over pre-lightened hair, you should always account for the natural underlying pigment that you expose when you pre- lighten," Keasling says. "If you forgot to pre-tone, add a control tone such as a violet or blue to your formula. If you're working with a portfolio that has a Matrix Color Sync 1A or a black tone in fashion shades, you can also add to your fi nal formula to give the result a smoky feel." Wendy Bond LAKMÉ NATIONAL DIRECTOR OF EDUCATION THE MISTAKE A foil shifts or the client moves abruptly, resulting in foil bleed. THE FIX "If you see a bleed spot when you're checking your client, use a permanent color the same level and tone as the client's base color," Bond says. "Apply an un-mixed color with your fi nger directly on the spot. The spot will cover in fi ve minutes, but it's no problem if you leave it on longer. Even if you've removed the foils and are starting to rinse the client, this technique will still work." Misael Aponte OLIGO PROFESSIONNEL INTERNATIONAL COLOR DIRECTOR THE MISTAKE You're low-lighting/red-lighting a blonde, and the color result is translucent or invisible. THE FIX "Blondes are porous and unpredictable, which often infl uences stylists to mix formulas that dominate in beige/gold or red/ copper," Aponte says. "To correct, pick up the same low-light pieces and increase the amount of brown up to half of the formula, sometimes even more. This provides level and depth to an otherwise refl ective tone. In fact, my home-run tip is to also incorporate a small amount of ash, which truly grounds a low- light formula. To control the rate of deposit on these previously colored pieces, increase developer strength from the previous formula."

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