The Colorist

SEP-OCT 2017

The Colorist is the hair color authority! How-to’s for stunning hair styles, hair color formulas, products for color-treated hair, celebrity colorist profiles, education tips and salon industry news are included in each issue.

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12 The Colorist | SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2017 | PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF L'ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL; COURTESY OF TIGI; ESTROP; COURTESY OF PANTONE; COURTESY OF MATRIX; COURTESY OF GKHAIR Lotus Abrams EDITOR IN CHIEF utumn is the perfect time to spice up your clients' hair color with a show-stopping shade of red. To help ignite your inspiration, we've compiled some of the hottest red hair color techniques—plus a few must-have products—in our "Red Zone" feature, and revealed some on-trend red shades from the fall 2017 Pantone Fashion Color Report in our "In Fashion" story. Matrix artistic director Nick Stenson also shares three top trends for your red-haired clients in his "In the Nick of Time" column. While red looks can create maximum visual impact, achieving them can be challenging for colorists. I asked Aloxxi celebrity colorist Marco Pelusi, whose Red Carpet Reds class is always in high demand at industry shows, for his top tips. HOT ROOTS "Hot roots means when the root/scalp area is a brighter, redder color, and the mid- lengths and ends are a dull brown or red," Pelusi says. " e direct opposite is what you want—deeper roots and brighter ends are always preferred. Formulation is key here, which means adding more brown/gold to the regrowth and adding much more red to the ends." UNEVEN COLOR "You want to achieve an even color of red throughout—you don't want some areas to be browner or duller than others," Pelusi says. " is may occasionally mean a need for a 'double dose' of red on some clients if the ends of their red hair have faded a lot. You may need to re-pigmentize the red throughout the mid-lengths and ends fi rst." GRAY COVERAGE "Compensate for the gray on the regrowth with the proper amount of natural/ neutral fi rst, and then decide how much red you wish to add to the regrowth formula. Also, the addition of some gold can be necessary to avoid that unwanted 'pink' color on gray roots." Pelusi's fi nal tip for achieving gorgeous reds? "Make sure you allow the color to process longer on all of your red hair color formulas," Pelusi says. " is is especially true for the mid-lengths and ends of the hair, as these areas are typically quite faded." Before you send your freshly colored redheaded clients out the door, don't forget to remind them to wash their hair less often, as red is one of the fi rst hair color shades to fade, and use a color-protecting shampoo. For a few standout options, check out our "It's a Wash" story. | up ont all fi red up 26 RED ZONE Expert how-tos and products IN FASHION Pantone's fall Fashion Color Report 34 18 IT'S A WASH Color- protecting shampoos 40 e keys to andout reds are d en on and contra . IN THE NICK OF TIME Top red trends

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