The Colorist

SEP-OCT 2017

The Colorist is the hair color authority! How-to’s for stunning hair styles, hair color formulas, products for color-treated hair, celebrity colorist profiles, education tips and salon industry news are included in each issue.

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44 The Colorist | SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2017 | PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF REDKEN; MAKEUP: AARON DE MEY makeup lesson Learn how to achieve Redken's Smokey Ombré color. O mbré hair color and makeup's ubiquitous smoky eye are two of the most sought-after looks by beauty and fashion addicts. is fall, Redken has merged the two trends to introduce the Smokey Ombré color technique, which can be customized for clients from subtle to dramatic. e three looks seen here on model and brand muse Ashley Moore were created by Redken's new global color creative director, Josh Wood, whose career achievements include collaborations with top fashion houses, such as Louis Vuitton, Versace and Marc Jacobs, as well as a slew of credits in venerated publications like Vogue, Elle and W. Here, learn how to get the look. | assroom High Glam PRE-LIGHTEN FORMULA 1 scoop Redken Flash Lift Maximum Power Lightening Powder + 1 oz. 30-volume Pro- oxide Cream Developer + 4 ml pH-Bonder #1 Bond Protecting Additive FORMULA A: ZONE 1 1¾ oz. Chromatics 5Ab (5.1) + ¼ oz. Chromatics 3Vb (3.25) + 2 oz. 10-volume Chromatics Oil In Cream Developer + 4 ml pH-Bonder #1 Bond Protecting Additive FORMULA B: ZONES 2–3 ¾ oz. Iron Shades EQ Gloss 06T + 1¼ oz. Crystal Clear Shades EQ Gloss 000 + 2 oz. Shades EQ Processing Solution + 4 ml pH- Bonder #1 Bond Protecting Additive FORMULA C: ZONE 3 (LAST INCH) ½ oz. 01B Onyx Shades EQ Gloss + 1½ oz. 000 Crystal Clear Shades EQ Gloss +1 oz. Shades EQ Processing Solution + 2 ml pH-Bonder #1 Bond Protecting Additive 1 Section the hair before pre-lightening. Create a horseshoe parting, securing the nape, back and sides. Next, create a triangle-shaped section on top of the head. Finally, divide the crown in half starting from the high point of the head. 2 Begin the pre-lightening application. Take a horizontal subsection at the base of the triangle. In a foil, apply the Pre- Lighten formula to zone 2 while softening slightly into zone 1 with the Redken Blur Brush. Use this color transition area as a stationary guide for lightener placement on remaining subsections. 3 Take a diagonal subsection directly behind one side of the triangle and place onto a foil. Apply Pre-Lighten formula to zone 2 and use the Blur Brush to slightly soften into zone 1. Cover the section with a foil. Continue with the same method by over-directing each diagonal section forward toward the face. 4 Complete the section and repeat on the opposite side using the same method. Process at room temperature for 50 minutes (or until Pre-Lighten formula reaches pale yellow). Shampoo with Extreme. Apply Chemistry Extreme. Dry hair. 5 Repeat the sectioning method from step one before beginning color application. 6 Apply formula A to zones 1 to 3 in nape, back and sides. 7 Move to the triangle section in the top. Using the same application method as in step six, apply formula A to remaining dark hair in zone 1 into zone 2. 8 Apply formula B down to the last remaining inch of zone 2 and formula C on the ends. 9 Apply formula B down to the last remaining inch of zone 2 and formula C on the ends. Note that all color transitions remain stationary for this application. 0 Apply the last two sections using the same application method from step six. Apply formula A to remaining dark hair in zone 1 into zone 2. q Process at room temperature for 20 minutes. Rinse. Do not shampoo. Apply pH-Bonder #2 Fiber Restorative Pre-Wash Concentrate for 10 minutes. Rinse and follow with Color Extend Magnetics. 1 Use Redken's makeup-inspired Blur Brush to distribute the color formulas evenly and create a blended transition between shades. 2 The Redken Edging Brush can be used to create and soften vertical lines to add dimension to hair color looks. Applying color with the side edge versus the fl at edge creates different effects. 1 2 "Smokey Ombré is a way to think about hair color as makeup, like contouring or shadowing or strobing. It's a way of adding light and shade, which can make any hairstyle look amazing." —JOSH WOOD, REDKEN GLOBAL COLOR CREATIVE DIRECTOR FOR CLIENTS WHO WANT chic and smoldering color

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