The Colorist

NOV-DEC 2017

The Colorist is the hair color authority! How-to’s for stunning hair styles, hair color formulas, products for color-treated hair, celebrity colorist profiles, education tips and salon industry news are included in each issue.

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42 The Colorist | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 | ma er man ulator a lways challenging her artistic abilities, ColorDesign director of education Meredith Connors created this Kustomized Manipulation look to demonstrate how seamless color melts can be achieved using shades that do not always blend together. "For example, violet and green are both secondary colors but are not next to each other on the color wheel or directly across," Connors explains. " eir only color is common is blue." To produce this look, Connors "manipulated" a level 1 auburn with ColorDesign Permanent Dark Grey Corrector to create a muted violet tone. " e tonal value of the model's mids and ends were created with an inspiration of a muted green, however I achieved these tones by manipulating a blue-violet and yellow direct dye with hints of turquoise," Connors says. Here, she shares how to get the look. | assroom FORMULAS A | SHADOW BASE 15 grams ColorDesign Permanent Color 1.6 + 15 grams Permanent Dark Grey Corrector + 60 grams 7-volume developer B | 1 bowl Fun&Glam Caribbean Turquoise C | 1 bowl Fun&Glam Explosive Yellow D | 1 bowl with 50 grams of Fun&Glam Explosive Yellow and 10 grams White Diamond, mixed 1 Section hair into quadrants. Apply formula A, the shadow base, on all four quadrants, working with a ½-inch depth. 2 Alternating sections on diagonals in each quadrant, apply formula A in a "V," similar to how lightener is applied in a balayage application. Each quadrant should contain three "V" applications, 1–2 inches apart. 3 Rinse and shampoo with ColorDesign Reconstruction Shampoo, and then blow-dry hair. 4 Section hair into quadrants and begin Fun&Glam application and melting in the back two quadrants. 5 Apply formula D closest to the shadow base, leaving ends to be melted. Use fi ngers to blur tones, working into formula C or formula B, alternating until the top of the quadrants is reached. 6 Move on to the front two quadrants, repeating the same alternating sections and formulas. 7 Process 20 minutes and rinse. 8 Apply Reconstruction Oil and Reconstruction Mask, processing for 10 minutes. Rinse and style. Use your fi ngers to blur tones. ColorDesign's Meredith Connors demonstrates how to achieve a seamless color melt using shades that do not always blend together. "As an artist, I challenge myself constantly to step outside of the box." —MEREDITH CONNORS, DIRECTOR OF EDUCATION, COLORDESIGN PHOTOGRAPHY (FROM TOP): NICK BERARDI; COURTESY OF MEREDITH CONNORS

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