The Colorist

NOV-DEC 2012

For hair color trends and celebrity hair, colorists turn to The Colorist. Celebrity hair, hair color ideas, hair color products and more.

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copy that mad about hue Everybody's talking about Elisabeth Moss's dramatic transformation from mousy brunette Peggy Olson on AMC's Mad Men to blonde bombshell. Here, celebrity colorist Rona O'Connor deconstructs her new look. + Rona O'Connor ➜ Elisabeth Moss + + STUFF I LOVE I love Goldwell Dualsenses Green True Color Shampoo because it's free of sulfates, artifi cial fragrances, dyes, silicones and parabens. I also recommend Goldwell Dualsenses Green Pure Repair to my clients with stressed or damaged hair. It's a 60-second treatment that leaves hair feeling soft and silky with incredible shine. One of my go-to styling products is Goldwell Style Sign Sleek Perfection, a waterless spray-on serum for a silky-straight look that lasts. STEP-BY-STEP 1Section the hair into four sections for the neatest and fastest application.To decolorize, mix two scoops of Goldwell Silklift Strong and two tubes of Silklift Intensive Conditioning Serum with 20-volume peroxide. Double this formula if the hair is Rona O'Connor, who owns Lukaro Salon in Beverly Hills, has a devoted following of A-list celebs like Debra Messing and Blake Lively, so it made sense to ask her how to safely go about duplicating this look on your brunette clients. For O'Connor, it's all about matching hair color to skin tone. "Clients with pink undertones and blue eyes can wear cool blondes with soft golden-beige undertones," she says. "Clients with brown or hazel eyes whose skin tone is warmer, perhaps with yellow undertones, look best with golden-beige or golden-blonde shades." Before any kind of extreme makeover, O'Connor always does a strand test. "My rule is to maintain the integrity of the hair. We don't want anything that resembles cotton candy," says O'Connor, who has come up with what she thinks is the safest approach for replicating this look. { Be as neat and precise as you can when you're bleaching hair. Timing is critical. Check your work frequently. 16 The Colorist | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2012 | thecoloristmag.com thick or long. 2Apply the formula, starting at the back of the head where hair is typically darker and takes longer to lift. Start ¾-inch away from the scalp and apply through the mid-lengths and ends. Process for about fi ve minutes and apply the rest of the formula to the roots. Comb through with a wide- toothed comb. Check the hair at 30 minutes, but it may take up to 45 minutes for the hair to reach a golden- ivory shade. 3Shampoo with Goldwell Color IQ Post- Color Shampoo and Color IQ Post-Color Conditioner to help neutralize the bleaching. 4 To tone, you'll be using one formula at the roots and one formula on the mid- shafts through the ends. Formula 1: 10 mls Colorance 10V, 5 mls 10BG and 30 mls Colorance Developer. Formula 2: 5 mls Colorance 10V, 2 mls 10BG and 5 mls Clear. 5 Apply Formula 1 to the roots 1 to 2 inches out. Process for 10 minutes. Then apply Formula 2 to the rest of the hair through the ends. Process for 5 to 10 minutes. Use a wide-toothed comb to pull color through from roots to ends. Check tone to see that it's absorbed thoroughly. Rinse only. Finish with Color IQ Color Glow Post-Color Conditioner. PHOTOGRAPHY (CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT): JASON KEMPIN/GETTY; PHOTO COURTESY OF RONA O'CONNOR; PRODUCT PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF GOLDWELL. {

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