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24 The Colorist | MARCH/APRIL 2015 | thecoloristmag.com blonde on blonde Brad Johns of the Brad Johns Color Studio at Samuel Shriqui Salon in New York City, is known as the king of the buttery blonde. Here, he shares his trade secrets. s ation to s ation I'm into cool blondes right now. T ey're not golden blondes but creamier shades of blonde. T ink neutral blondes, but not extremes—nothing ashy, which makes people look dead. Right now golden shades of blonde make you look out of date. You need permanent dye to lift and change hair color and cover gray, and a demi-cream to cover gray 100 percent with no lift. ❝ ❝ We can mimic the Surfer-Girl Blonde by highlighting only the front and the top of the hair. This is where the sun would naturally bleach the hair when girls are surf ng. Try shining a light on the top of the head in the salon. You'll see where you're supposed to put highlights. If you have to separate the hair to f nd light, the light is not supposed to be there. There are basically three types of blondes: the Natural Blonde, the Bombshell Blonde and the Surfer-Girl Blonde. Surfer-Girl Blondes are the girls on the beach. Their hair is naturally colored by the sun. You can try to duplicate that look by using any fad—chunking, ombré, f ne- lights. Your goal if she says she wants to be a beach blonde is to look at surfer girls. All their hair looks different from one another because of the way it's cut and how the sun hits it and how long it has been exposed to the sun. Bombshell blondes include Gwen Stefani, Marilyn Monroe and Madonna. T ey don't give a damn whether you know they color their hair. T ey will be the boldest, baddest blondes on the planet. T ey never have roots. T e Natural Blonde is the shade you see on children. If I do that on a client, you're not quite sure if it's her real color or not. T e Natural Blonde includes fads like ombré, chunking, slicing and fi ne-lights (really tiny, tiny highlights). T e Natural Blonde can get away with some roots. The new Surfer-Girl Blonde will not be as light as a professional surfer. You want your client to look like she's been out in the sun for a month. lis en UP! B rad Johns made headlines in the 1990s when he was color director for Oribe in New York City and invented "chunking" for Christy Turlington. Vogue dubbed him the "Color Czar"; there were profi les in People and Allure; and he became known for big, bold, gold color. When we asked him to open up about what's trending these days when it comes to blondes, he had plenty to say. Listen up. PHOTOGRAPHY: STEVEN KLEIN There are fads that go in and out, but these three types of blondes will always be in style. Every blonde falls into one of these three categories.