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is an internationally recognized educator, speaker and author and founder of BeautySuperStars, which offers coaching and consulting to progressive hair designers and salon owners at an affordable price. Recently she received the Legend Award at the 60th Bronner Bros. International Beauty Show for her more than 20 years as a platform artist and salon owner. miki wright MIKI WRIGHT f nds that more African-American clients are embracing their natural curls and texture, which they are enhancing with color. "That trend, combined with the fact that the American landscape has become increasingly multicultural is why it's more important than ever to recognize that dressing hair is really more about texture than skin color," says Wright, who offers these tips to take the fear out of coloring African-American hair: The consultation is key. Color services are ripe for miscommunication. Pictures can help you better determine the desired tone and lightness. Overall, apply the same rules to properly analyze the hair and formulate the color. African-American hair tends to be drier. That's why it's best to use moisturizing treatments during prior appointments, as well as after the color service. While advising your client of the initial cost of hair color, you also need to talk to her about maintenance, including products to use at home and additional treatments that may be necessary for optimum results. Chemically relaxed hair tends to be more porous, more fragile and have fewer cuticle layers. For those reasons, it's important to adjust your formula accordingly. Hair may lighten faster than you expected, but choosing the next lighter shade of color, say using a level 7 instead of a 6 with 20-volume developer, may often give the desired lift. African-American hair tends to have a lot of pigment and will usually pull warm when lightening. Still, those warm tones often give very f attering results, so don't try to get rid of them all. On the other hand, be sure to compensate to avoid orange when lightening past a level 8 and/or use a temporary or semi-permanent color/glaze to tone. Highlights (with or without a glaze) are an excellent way to enhance a style without exposing all of the hair to the rigors of permanent color. When highlighting hair that's been relaxed, keep the application out about ½ inch from the scalp so there will be room to apply the next relaxer application without overlapping the highlighted hair. PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF MIKI WRIGHT; GETTY IMAGES, WIRE IMAGE s eal this look Want to duplicate the believable shade of blonde that recording artist Ciara was rocking at the 2014 Grammy Awards? L'Oréal Professionnel Artist Jason Backe has come up with a technique that lets you do just that. Re-creating the look on a model at the Ted Gibson Salon in New York City, Backe started by isolating side sections with a horizontal parting on each side of the parietal ridge. Next, he created a diagonal back parting parallel to the hairline. To create random highlighted strands through the interior, Backe used L'Oréal Professionnel ammonia-free Platinum. Finally, he toned the highlights with L'Oréal Professionnel DIA Light 10.12/10BV + 6-volume Diactivateur globally. MAY/JUNE 2014 | The Colorist 39 0 5 1 4 e a s y d o e s i t 4 p g . i n d d 3 9 0514 easy does it 4 pg.indd 39 4 / 1 5 / 1 4 1 : 2 2 P M 4/15/14 1:22 PM